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WHAT ARE THE FEATURES OF A CONDENSING HIVE?

Natural tree cavity hives are condensing hives! The main features of condensing hives are as follows:

1. No upper entrances or any ventilation openings in the hive other than the lower entrance.

2. No use of moisture absorbing materials in the hive, including quilt boxes and Vivaldi boards.

3. Providing high R-value insulation (R-30 for climate zones 1-5) on the top of the hive to keep it above dew point to keep the ceiling dry.

4. Insulating the walls of the hive, but less than the top so that condensation occurs on the cooler walls. Bees stay warm and dry and have access to the much needed moisture to drink and dilute their honey.

IS THERE A CONCERN ABOUT TOO MUCH MOISTURE IN THE HIVE?

Well insulated, non-ventilated hives provide stable, consistent temperatures so there are not the diurnal swings that create daily dips into dew point ranges which lead to the formation of condensation. So ironically there is actually less of an issue with condensation in well insulated, non-ventilated hives than in poorly insulated hives.

Etienne Tardif’s research suggests that in condensing hive, the bees are very sophisticated at regulating relative humidity in the hive. They will allow the hive temperatures to rise or drop to create the right amount of moisture required for their drinking water and metabolizing honey.

We have not come across any research that talks about too much moisture being an issue as long as it stays off the top of the hive, which is accomplished by super insulating the top of the hive. There is even research that suggests that high relative humidity levels can help slow Varroa reproduction.

HOW MUCH HONEY TO LEAVE FOR OVERWINTERING?

In our climate zone of 3-4, we recommend leaving 80-100 pounds of honey in a double deep and 60-80 pounds in a single deep. In well insulated, non-ventilated hives, the research shows that the bees consume 30-50% less honey, so there is no need for fondant or emergency feed in the winter. Beekeepers often have surplus honey left over in the spring. Despite this, we still recommend leaving that much honey though because honey provides great thermal mass and helps the hive retain heat.

WHAT IF I AM SHORT ON HONEY GOING INTO WINTER?

To provide supplemental/emergency feed, you can put a feeding shim above the wooden inner cover, then place the Crown panel on top of the feeding shim. Tape around the seams to prevent potential heat loss.

HOW MANY HIVE BOXES?

The scientific research states that overwintering in the smallest configuration for the number of bees yields the best outcomes, not only in colony strength and survival, but in reduced honey consumption. Too big of hive space in relation to the number of bees can result in winter failure. 

In the fall, assess the size of your colony, taking into account that many of the bees are summer bees and drones. Then chose the smallest hive box configuration that would match the number of bees. Etienne Tardif, a beekeeper and researcher in the Yukon, he gets the best survival in single deeps. Think about the stress of heating a three story mansion compared to a small bungalow. 

Many beekeepers are taught to overwinter using 3 deeps to ensure having enough honey. Indeed, in a ventilated, poorly insulated hive, the bees consume A LOT more honey for energy to generate heat, so beekeepers often need 3 deeps. 

However, the research shows that in non-ventilated, well insulated hives, the bees consume 30-50% less honey. As long as you leave about ~12 full frames of honey, the bees can easily overwinter in a 2 deep configuration. You should not need the 3rd deep hive box. We frequently have beekeepers opening their hives in the spring to find surplus honey.  

SOLID OR SCREENED BOTTOM BOARDS?

In our test hives, we use both solid and screened bottom boards, and both set ups have similar excellent outcomes. The configuration of the bottom board doesn’t seem to have significant impact on the thermodynamics of the hive. If a screened bottom board is used, then ensure that the panel is slid back onto place for winter.

WHAT ABOUT SLATTED RACKS?

Slatted racks provide the benefit of creating a buffer from the cold winds blowing directly onto the bees. We do not use them in our research apiaries, but we certainly believe that they can provide added cold protection to the colony. 

SETTING THE ENTRANCE REDUCER

Set the entrance reducer to the 4 3/4 inch size and invert it so the opening is on top. That way when dead bees collect on the bottom board, they will not plug up that opening. If you intend to check on your hives regularly over the winter and clear the entrance, then setting it so the opening is on the bottom is fine. It depends on how involved you intend to be managing your hives over the winter.

DO I NEED TO TILT MY HIVES FORWARD?

In our test hives, we do not tip the hives forward and have had no issues with moisture or ice collecting on the bottom board.

In well insulated, non-ventilated hives, the bees eat 30 to 50% less honey and so there’s significantly less water produced as a byproduct of honey metabolism.

Also, well insulated, non-ventilated hives provide stable, consistent temperatures so there are not the diurnal swings that create daily dips into dew point ranges which lead to the formation of condensation. So ironically there is less of an issue with condensation in well insulated, non-ventilated hives than in poorly insulated hives. 

WHAT ABOUT SNOW AND ICE BLOCKING THE ENTRANCE?

We are located in Minnesota and many of the hives are sitting on pallets located in remote settings and we do not clear the entrances over the winter. The heat coming out of the lower entrance is sufficient to melt snow/ice that collects there.

However, if it were to snow more than a foot on snow in a short period of time, it would be prudent to shovel out the beehives. 

Curiously, it is reported that in some countries, they purposely bury their hives completely in snow and the heat leaving the lower entrance melts the snow by the entrance and creates a little dome where air exchange can still happen. 

WHEN TO PUT ON INSULATION?

Bill Hesbach, one of the pioneers of condensing hives, says to put on insulation when we start putting on a jacket to go outside. The research shows that the bees start to vibrate their wing muscles at around 60° and they begin to cluster at 50-55°. Generating heat takes a lot of energy, so it is very helpful to reduce their stress by applying insulation when the temps drop in the 50-60° range.

WHEN TO TAKE OFF INSULATION?

No rush to remove the insulation in the spring as it is a very vulnerable time for the colony. In fact, it is the time of year with the highest mortality rate, which can be very confusing and frustrating for the beekeeper. The demands in spring of the worker bees are very different than in the dead winter. Once the queen starts laying eggs, the old winter bees need to activate their glands to care for the brood and generate enough heat to keep the brood at 95°. And if they are unable to do this because of cold exposure, they will quit trying and without replacement brood, the colony will perish. So we recommend leaving the Hive Hugger on until temps are consistently above 60°.

WHICH FOAM BOARD DENSITY IS RIGHT FOR ME?

The high density foam board is more durable and offers added protection against compression and moisture. So it will hold up better against accidental damage.  

The high density foam board has an R-value of 7.8 and offers more cold protection than the standard density, which has an R-value of 6.9. Depending on the climate zone you live in, that extra cold protection may be helpful.

USE OF HIVE HUGGER IN WARM WEATHER

We did some preliminary summer testing of the Hive Hugger system on some hives in Tennessee where it gets VERY hot and humid. Initially, the hives were doing better in strength and productivity, but as the season progressed, the benefit was no longer apparent and then 2 of the hives died. We are not sure why. The temp and relative humidity data did not reveal any clues. 

There are a couple of research studies that show the benefit of top insulation in keeping hives cooler in hot weather. We do not have our own data to support this claim, so at this point we are not marketing the product for hot weather use. We are planning on doing more research in hot weather climates, so hopefully we will be able to give a more definitive answer in the future. 

WHAT TYPE OF HIVE STAND IS RECOMMENDED?

Do not set the hive boxes on metal, cement or concrete blocks. The hive will lose heat through contact with those materials. It is recommended to put foam board or wood between those surfaces and the bottom board of your hive.

MANAGING MITES

The scientific research shows that reducing cold stress improves the bees immune system. However, do your best to manage mites and diseases so that the hive is healthy going into winter. The Hive Hugger can absolutely prevent colony loss due to cold exposure, but it cannot protect against winter loss from mites or sick bees.